A Pavilion of many flavors
One of the most historic hotels in the Philippines is the Manila Pavilion, the most favored and famous Philippine hotel when it opened about four decades ago as the Manila Hilton.
Who can forget the basement bar/disco/quick bites dungeon called the 1571, named after the year when explorer Miguel Lopez de Legazpi established a settlement in what was to be called the City of Manila?
In the 1970s, the Manila Hilton was The Happening Place. Lunch fashion shows under the baton of legendary Conchita Sunico, held at the Top of the Hilton, set the social tone; for lunch and dinner the top names in politics and industry had their favorite tables reserved at the Rotisserie.
When Pope Paul VI visited Manila in November of 1970, the international press used the Manila Hilton as their headquarters. It was convenient, as the international press center for the visit was at the Philamlife building across the street.
On the evening of August 22, 1972, the hotel was where then Senator Benigno Aquino Jr. was arrested; the room were he was billeted now bears a historical marker.
Muhammad Ali, Greatest Boxer Who Ever Lived, stayed at the Presidential Suite of the Manila Hilton for what is still considered the best boxing match ever: the October 1975 Thrilla in Manila. Again, the international press stayed at the Hilton, to cover all of Ali’s workouts, pranks and antics. The press center for the fight was at the Philamlife building.
Then came 1976, the IMF-World Bank conference in Manila, for which then First Lady Imelda Marcos had to build new five-star hotels and the Philippine International Convention Center to accommodate all the delegates. Manila’s night people suddenly had a wide selection of watering holes and dining joints.
Still, the Manila Hilton held its post as a “must” place for dinner. And for lunch, there was no contest; the Chinese restaurant on the third floor was the only place for lunch for stock brokers, government officials and emerging Taipans.
CNN’s Asia Bureau Chief John Lower housed his Manila operations at the Hilton from November 1985 to February 1986, to cover the Snap Elections and the start of the EDSA People Power Revolution. The government’s own Press Center, headed by Rod Reyes, was housed on an entire floor of the Hilton.
Fast forward to 2011, when almost all the world’s hotel chains are operating outlets in the major cities of the Philippines. The old Hilton Hotel is now the Manila Pavilion, under the umbrella of the Philippines’ own Waterfront chain. A major renovation has been ongoing, very visible at the lobby and outlets of the hotel. The 40-year-old lady is getting a long-overdue facelift.
Last week, we realized how extensive the changes are at the Pavilion, over a Chinese lunch at the Peony Garden restaurant that was so different from all other Chinese lunches served at other hotels. Malaysian Chinese Chef Lee Yan Feng presented dishes that were mostly bereft of sticky sauces, thereby highlighting the true flavors and textures of fresh ingredients.
My dining companion Ms. Jullie Yap Daza, who’s a born-and-bred Chinese culture expert, raved over the menu which was a mixture of traditional comfort food and regional variations.
Whole Chicken Braised in Chinese Herbs warmed the heart and needed no knives and forks. Lapu-lapu fillet was deep-fried with the thinnest sprinkling of sweet potato flour, accented only by crisp oatmeal and threads of lightly-stirred eggs. So minimalist, pure and heavenly.
The Pavilion’s GM Christopher Park would not reveal the secret of Jullie’s favorite, Cold Bean Curd with Minced Pork and Pickled Lettuce. All he would admit was that the chef made the bean curd in-house, a process that takes more than 48 hours.
Chef Lee’s admitted that his secret sauce for the Deep-Fried Prawns had garlic, shallots, salted beans and Chinese bagoong but he went no further; no hints as to proportions of cooking methods.
The last savory dish appeared plain but tasted complicated: Soya Egg Noodle with three kinds of meat. The firm noodles were coated with a dark sauce reminiscent of superior soy sauce, heightened by sliced black shiitake mushrooms and shredded chicken and pork. Eggs and vegetables added texture and color contrasts.
It was but apt that our desserts be simple: fried sesame balls (buche) and black jelly with mixed fruit.
We are looking forward to more culinary and other types of adventures at the Manila Pavilion, a hotel which is finally living up to its rich history. - Article courtesy of Manila Bulletin.
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